One of the biggest mistakes I see in my Houston salon is clients using the wrong products on their locs. That buildup? Those slow-locking sections? Often, it's a product problem. Let's break down exactly what your locs need - and what they definitely don't.
The Golden Rule: Less Is More
Your locs don't need a 10-step routine. In fact, the simpler your regimen, the healthier your locs will be. The locking process happens best when hair is clean and free from heavy products.
What Your Locs Actually Need
1. A Residue-Free Shampoo
This is non-negotiable. Regular shampoos leave residue that builds up inside your locs over time. Look for:
- "Residue-free" on the label
- Clear formulas (not creamy)
- Clarifying shampoos for occasional deep cleaning
**Recommended brands:** Dr. Bronner's Castile Soap, Trader Joe's Tea Tree Shampoo, Dollylocks, or any shampoo specifically formulated for locs.
2. A Light Moisturizing Spray
Your locs and scalp need hydration, but not heavy moisture. A water-based spray is perfect.
**DIY option:** Distilled water with a few drops of essential oil (lavender, tea tree, or peppermint).
**Store-bought:** Look for sprays where water is the first ingredient, with minimal oils.
3. A Light Oil for Your Scalp
Notice I said scalp, not locs. Your scalp may need occasional oiling, especially if you experience dryness or itching.
Best oils for locs:
- Jojoba oil (closest to natural sebum)
- Grapeseed oil (lightweight)
- Sweet almond oil (absorbs well)
Apply sparingly to the scalp only, never coating the locs themselves.
What to Avoid (Seriously, Put It Down)
Heavy Butters and Creams
Shea butter, mango butter, heavy creams - these are loc killers. They:
- Don't fully absorb
- Build up inside your locs
- Create that white, waxy residue
- Attract lint and dust
- Can cause odor over time
Beeswax
Traditional loc wax was once popular, but we now know it's terrible for locs. Beeswax:
- Never fully washes out
- Builds up permanently
- Can cause mold and mildew inside locs
- Creates stiff, unnatural locs
If you have beeswax buildup, it may require professional removal or, in severe cases, loc amputation.
Gel and Edge Control
Using gel on your locs (not just edges) causes:
- Flaky buildup
- Stiffness
- Difficulty locking properly
If you use edge control, keep it strictly on your edges, away from your actual locs.
Regular Conditioner
Traditional conditioners coat the hair shaft with silicones and heavy moisturizers. This prevents proper locking and causes buildup. If you want to condition, use an apple cider vinegar rinse instead.
Petroleum-Based Products
Any product with petroleum, mineral oil, or petrolatum will:
- Suffocate your hair
- Create buildup
- Attract dirt and lint
The Buildup Problem
Buildup inside locs is a serious issue. Signs include:
- Locs that never fully dry
- White or gray residue when you squeeze locs
- Musty smell even after washing
- Locs that feel heavier than they should
If you suspect buildup, schedule a professional deep cleanse. We can assess the damage and recommend treatment.
My Recommended Loc Routine
Weekly/Bi-weekly:
1. Wash with residue-free shampoo
2. Let locs air dry completely (this is important!)
3. Light spritz of moisturizing spray
As needed:
- Light oil on scalp for dryness
- Apple cider vinegar rinse (1-2x per month) for clarifying
What you DON'T need:
- Leave-in conditioner
- Hair butter
- Loc gel
- Multiple products layered together
Special Considerations for Houston
Our humidity means your locs hold moisture longer. Make sure you:
- Allow complete drying after washing
- Don't over-moisturize
- Watch for any mildew signs during humid months
The Bottom Line
Healthy locs come from clean, simple care. When in doubt, use less product, not more. Your locs will thank you with faster locking, less buildup, and a healthier appearance.
Questions about your current routine? Book a consultation at Kelatic Hair Lounge, and let's get your locs on track.